![]() My latest teal green patch is cooking in the sun.īecause i live in Seattle I figure I should be able to buff that thing about 2 or 3 months from know. It may look lighter in the shade, it may darker in the sun.Ĭarefully wet sand from the old paint into the new paint.īuff the old paint next to your patch without hitting the patch.Ī light touch with a brand new wool pad and just wax.Īnd then leave it alone again for a month ![]() When you are happy enough with the tone of the paint, Not the gloss or the reflectivity of the paint. You want lots of paint for the next step. On the next coat, a little wet sand to knock it down and find the high and low. That radious helps you avoid that hard line. Spray carfully over that edge from a distance when you fog that first coat. Instead lay the tape down and curl the edge back so it is radiused and standing up. Ive had pretty good results by changing the angle and the distance when I spray and by laying on a thin coat, let it cure, another coat, let it cure.ĭont use a hard line of tape. It reflects light differently and that catches your eye. The hard part with a metallic is the "flip and the flop"īasically how the metal flake lays down when you spray it. You still have to do normal auto body work to get it close.įeathered edges, no hard lines, surface built up to the same level, etc. The wesco 20 minutes away was a 2 can minimum for 58 bucks.Įven some NAPA stores can make spray cans if you have no other option. My local wesco auto would only mix a 4 can minimum for 168 bucks. Go to an auto body supply store with your paint code.īut, shop around. I bet if I used a black primer it would have matched much better. I think my problem was using a light colored primer under such thin paint. From Project Vehicle Series to individual How-To Videos demonstrating how to get the best results for your project. The green tone looks good, and the metalic looks OK, but its too light, even after 4 coats. The dirtyness is from spending the night under a pine tree. I didn't do any final sanding/polishing of the clear, what you see is straight out of the can. Everything went smoothly, even though I was painting outside on a cool, breezy day. I used almost the entire can to do about 4ft worth of bed rail (2 on each side, under a cross bed toolbox). The plus is that it goes on smoothly, the minus is that it doesn't cover. I sprayed every first coat very light and got progressively thicker with subsequent coats. I followed the directions on the cans pretty carefully. I sanded with an RO sander to get the rust and chips and junk off, then shot it with 2 coats of filler primer, sanded with 500 by hand, then shot 4 coats of Duplicolor Perfect Match (matching my paint code of course) and 2 coats of the duplicolor clear. Since the entire job was going to be covered and protected by the rails I didn't try to blend anything, just masked it straight and went for it. I have always wondered about those Duplicolor spray cans they always have on the shelf at O'Reillys, Autozone, etc and I had some rust under my toolbox so I decided to do a bit of repair work before putting rail caps on.
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